day thirty four: back from the bush

so, after nearly a week, i have returned to the smog and electricity of kampala. i cant tell you how happy i was to walk through the door of my house last night. when ronnie walked to the door and greeted me with a big hug and a welcome home, i couldnt shake the smile from my face. my time away was enjoyable enough, but ive really come to value and appreciate my home here in kampala. and i love that i can call it a home.

it took longer to get to the village than i had thought. but first, in case i havent explained, allow me to. i just took a trip to visit the village of a friend here, Julius. although Julius couldnt come with, his brother took me under his wing and showed me around, introducing me to new things and village life, accustoming me to life without electricity.

this village was much more spread out than i had anticipated. small groups of housing compounds, denoting families, tucked away in the shadow of a valley, nestled in the middle of miles and miles of banana plantation. i dont know how to get my pictures on this computer, or even if i can get them on this site, or else i would show you.

these villages are farming villages. as i said, miles and miles of bananas. i was expecting something more close knit- that where the people and homes are all close together, relying on each other, sharing their lives etc. ive missed that feeling ever since my time last year in the Dominican Republic. but as i said, they were more spread out, although the whole of the family would gather at one house for dinner every night. they speak a different language out west there, so even the little lugandan ive picked up didnt help me much : )

warren(julius's brother) was the only one with a good grasp of english, besides the children who were mostly to shy to talk to me. though they did give me enough inquisitive eyes and shy smiles to last a while. warren showed me around well enough, explaining the different types of banana's and showing me the cattle and landscape. we spend an entire day walking up and around the mountain that makes up one wall of the valley the village is in(does that make sense?). the top of this mountain is higher than the others in the area. and from atop it, we had a commanding view of western uganda, as well as rwanda and tanzania, all in one sweeping panoramic. its beautiful out here, so many greens and rolling hills.

the stars are another matter all together. they come out with a fury, puncturing the blackness of the night. its hard to do anything but worship under such a canopy, and i was sure to drink my fill of it while i could. the great thing about having no electricity, is certainly the night sky. weve forgotten its magesty, and chased it away with our own smaller imitations. ill tell you here, in case youve forgotten or never seen- the milky way strewn across the sky is awe inspiring, like a blanket for the earth. these sights made my nights. and to top it off, the children in our compound would gather together after dinner, and sing songs together until their throats were soar. its quite a feeling to hear these kids, singing simple songs we learned in sunday school, at the top of their lungs. and you cant help but let a smile take over your face.

before we left, warren got news that a good friend's dad had passed away in a village close by. we made the trip to pay our final resqects. the service was much like one we would have, only with many more people, and a lot longer. it seemed like everyone wanted a chance to say their peace. and any people of importance were recognized, again, and again, and again. im sure it was a beautiful service, but i dont know. none of it was in english.

afterwards, they laid the body to rest, and everyone joined in celebration of his life. the tradition here is to feed all the guests the night before, and the whole day of the funeral. i really enjoyed this tradition. its cool to see life celebrated this way. and it went on all through the night. tradition also dictates that a fire is made the night before, and the guests stay up that night around it, telling stories about the deceased. this is carried on or two nights, though usually only the older generation stay the whole night. i joined the camp fire, not understanding but appreciating the custom and remenisence of this man's life.

life here can seem cheap at times. death is often quick, unexpected, and pointless. it is not uncommon to see a man strewn at the side of the road, the victim of a speeding motorcycle or taxi. these deaths are violent, and birth some anger in me. why is life held so loosley here? is nothing sacred that you can be so careless? it was good then, for me to see the funeral. as i said, it was very long, many people wishing to say their peace. the ceremony went on for hours, and the related events, for literal days. its good to see that life, and death, is still valuable. it is still sacred. there are family and friends of each person, ties that bind us all together. even if a passing motorist doesnt care to slow down.

all my love
jon